Basic Storage Recipes

Here's some resources for recipes with "basic" food storage, which is what most cannery items are considered to be. This may help some who do not know what to do with these items! The internet is also FULL of LDS blogs and resources for recipes. Try to PRINT whatever you find useful.

Cannery Cookbook "Deseret Recipes"

New Ideas For Cooking with Basic Home Storage

This is also a good resource, although it is not a recipe book. 
Essentials of Home Production and Storage

There are also some good books on my sidebar.  Usually cheapest at Amazon.

How to Can Ground Beef

LDS Preparedness Manual

One of the best guides on preparedness that I have looked into is the LDS Preparedness Manual.  It is not distributed or published through the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints, but is many writings compiled by an LDS member.  You can download and print this 222-page manual for FREE (make sure to choose "duplex" on your printer settings to print double-sided!  Less paper, less bulk).

Storable Fuel: Charcoal

Even if you don't have a grill, consider stocking up on charcoal.  Look for deals on charcoal, especially near the end of summer.  You CAN store this great fuel source long term, so STOCK UP.  Keep in mind not all charcoal brands may be equal.  I've heard Kingsford burns the longest.  Store charcoal in a moisture-protected container.  Humidity is bad for it.  Use tight-sealing buckets or drums.

From the Homeland Security website:

Charcoal is the least expensive fuel per BTU that the average family can store. Remember that it must always be used out of doors because of the vast amounts of poisonous carbon monoxide it produces. Charcoal will store for extended period of time if it is stored in air tight containers. It readily absorbs moisture from the surrounding air so do not store it in the paper bags it comes in for more than a few months or it may be difficult to light. Transfer it to airtight metal or plastic containers and it will keep almost forever.

Fifty or sixty dollars worth of charcoal will provide all the cooking fuel a family will need for an entire year if used sparingly. The best time to buy briquettes inexpensively is at the end of the summer. Broken or torn bags of briquettes are usually sold at a big discount. You will also want to store a small amount of charcoal lighter fluid (or kerosene). Newspapers will also provide an excellent ignition source for charcoal when used in a funnel type of lighting device.

To light charcoal using newspapers use two or three sheets, crumpled up, and a #10 tin can. Cut both ends out of the can. Punch holes every two inches around the lower edge of the can with a punch-type can opener (for opening juice cans). Set the can down so the punches holes are on the bottom. Place the crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the can and place the charcoal briquettes on top of the newspaper. Lift the can slightly and light the newspaper. Prop a small rock under the bottom edge of the can to create a a good draft. The briquettes will be ready to use in about 20-30 minutes. When the coals are ready remove the chimney and place them in your cooker. Never place burning charcoal directly on concrete or cement because the heat will crack it. A wheelbarrow or old metal garbage can lid makes an excellent container for this type of fire.

One of the nice things about charcoal is that you can regulate the heat you will receive from them. Each briquette will produce about 40 degrees of heat. If you are baking bread, for example, and need 400 degrees of heat for your oven, simply use ten briquettes.

To conserve heat and thereby get the maximum heat value from your charcoal you must learn to funnel the heat where you want it rather than letting it dissipate into the air around you. One excellent way to do this is to cook inside a cardboard oven. Take a cardboard box, about the size of an orange crate, and cover it with aluminum foil inside and out. Be sure that the shiny side is visible so that maximum reflectivity is achieved. Turn the box on its side so that the opening is no longer on the top but is on the side. Place some small bricks or other noncombustible material inside upon which you can rest a cookie sheet about two or three inches above the bottom of the box. Place ten burning charcoal briquettes between the bricks (if you need 400 degrees), place the support for your cooking vessels, and then place your bread pans or whatever else you are using on top of the cookie sheet. Prop a foil-covered cardboard lid over the open side, leaving a large crack for air to get in (charcoal needs a lot of air to burn) and bake your bread, cake, cookies, etc. just like you would in your regular oven. Your results will amaze you.

To make your own charcoal, select twigs, limbs, and branches of fruit, nut and other hardwood trees; black walnuts and peach or apricot pits may also be used. Cut wood into desired size, place in a large can which has a few holes punched in it, put a lid on the can and place the can in a hot fire. When the flames from the holes in the can turn yellow-red, remove the can from the fire and allow it to cool. Store the briquettes in a moisture-proof container. Burn charcoal only in a well-ventilated area.

Vacuum Sealing Mylar with Your Foodsaver

You want to protect food from air, moisture, and light.  Home vacuum sealers and their respective bags can protect against the elements.  I still prefer mylar bags for long term, however.  Mylar is thicker and more impenetrable than plastic vacuum seal bags, and protects from light.  It is tougher to tear too.  But for many dry food items, you need oxygen absorber packets in order to seal mylar for long term storage.  Unused and sealed O2 absorbers only last 6 months to a year or so, so they have to be continually purchased. Sometimes you'll notice the next day it didn't absorb all your air and you have to try again.  If only you could just get that instant satisfaction like with a vacuum sealer.  You can't seal a mylar bag in most regular (external) vacuum sealers because it lies too smoothly to allow air to suck out when it is against the heat strip.  Chamber vacs allow mylar to be vacuum sealed but are extremely expensive.  While researching options, I came across several videos on YouTube on this very subject.  Check out this possible alternative to sealing your mylar bags...

How To Vacuum Seal Mylar in a Foodsaver

You won't be able to use cannery bags in some Foodsavers because the heat strip is too short in some models for the bag width.  In that case, however, you could cut the bag in half or just thinner and heat seal the cut edges to create a smaller bag, then proceed to vacuum the top.  Note: models that require the ends of the bag to be inserted into a slot for vacuuming and sealing may not work at all, you'd have to try and see.

Foodsavers are also good for resealing your mylar bags once they are opened.  For example, if you have a bag of oatmeal you plan to go through within the month, just heat seal it closed (forget vacuuming) so you can throw it back in the freezer(or wherever you store it) without it spilling out.  Another option is to open the contents of your mylar bags and pour them into empty #10 cans for convenient opening and closing.  

Another tip for sealing Mylar bags, whether with and O2 absorber or without, is to use a flat iron (for hair).  It easily seals if you slide the tool along the opening slowly but continuously; you just have to use a steady hand.  I’ve had great success with this method!

Peggy Layton Articles

Peggy Layton is an author of several food storage and preparedness books.  Here is some recommended reading!

Build an Outdoor Oven

This article is from last spring's Mother Earth News magazine.  This would be great for emergencies or anytime!  

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